What I Ate in Prague (and What I'd Skip)
It's easy to get Prague wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I walked into a tourist-trap restaurant on Wenceslas Square, ordered a $15 "traditional" goulash, and nearly gagged on the over-salted, overcooked mess. The waiter, sensing my discomfort, shrugged and said, "Most people think this is how it's done." He was right. Prague's real food isn't in the squares; it's in the alleys, the hidden courtyards, and the places where locals actually eat. My first real meal came on a rainy Tuesday at U Modré Kachničky, a tiny restaurant tucked away on Štěpánská Street, just off the river. I stumbled in, soaked from the downpour, and was greeted by the smell of simmering pork belly and the sound of a Czech grandmother chopping garlic. The menu was handwritten, and the prices were shockingly reasonable: 120 CZK (about $5) for a bowl of svíčková, a rich beef stew served with dumplings and a creamy sauce. It was the best I'd ever...